If you are planning to make a flamenco dance costume you may have wondered what is the best way to close your skirt, top or dress.
The quick answer: Use a zipper
This might not come as a surprise for skirts but most flamenco dresses and tops or blouses are also closed using a zipper.
There are several types of zippers available. Sew Mama Sew‘s Guide to Zippers gives a great overview.
So what type of zipper should you use?
Well, that depends on the type of fabric you are using and the garment you’re making – coiled, metal or even plastic molded.
In general:
- Use the sturdiest zipper you can for the material you are using. Flamenco dance outfits are tight fitting and have to withstand flamenco dancing. Therefore I never use invisible zippers; they are just too fragile for a flamenco dance costume. I wouldn’t use a heavy plastic molded zipper for a chiffon outfit but whether I use a metal or plastic coiled zip usually depends on what is available in the length and colour I need for any given garment.
- Sew the zipper into the center back seam whenever possible. The center back seam is often the only straight seam in a flamenco dance garment and sewing a zipper into a straight seam it is always easier to achieve a great looking finish; and it won’t be in the way when you need to adjust the side seams to take in or let out a bit.
- Most of the time I insert the zipper centered. It is merely a personal preference but I find it doesn’t add unnecessary bulk when using a fairly heavy zipper and is easily taken out and moved elsewhere (yes, I do value this kind of practicality a lot since flamenco dance costumes are often altered or adapted to another dancer).
- For skirts and dresses insert a zipper long enough to open down to the widest part of the hip. This allows stepping into the skirt or dress from the top which makes the dancer’s life a lot easier when she has hair and makeup already done.
- For flamenco tops you have the choice between inserting a separated zipper and closing the top 2-3 inches of the center back seam and inserting a normal zipper “upside down”.
Most dancers prefer a separated zipper but in Spain it often isn’t easy to find them in the required length or colour.
If you are making a blouse or prefer your flamenco top to close in the front I recommend you still use a zipper and, if you like, sew buttons as adornment. Buttons as a closure are not a good idea – when spreading your arms the buttons either don’t stay closed or gape open, either way you won’t be concentrating on your dance .. - Add a button or hook & eye at the end of the zipper to reinforce the closure and make sure the zipper doesn’t take all the strain. The last thing you want while dancing is a zipper that isn’t up to the task and breaks or opens ..
As usual, there are no hard and fast rules. Use your imagination and, most importantly, have fun!
